Overview
Chemical peels: how the types differ
Before you book a chemical peel, find out how deep it goes. A peel is an acid placed on the skin to remove its damaged outer layers, and peels are sorted by how far down they go. A superficial (light) peel stays in the epidermis. A medium-depth peel reaches the papillary dermis, and a deep peel reaches the mid-reticular dermis (Soleymani et al., J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2018). Depth also decides the healing time, the risks and, in Texas, who may legally perform the peel (TDLR). This site has no Austin price range for chemical peels. Ask the spa for the cost of the exact peel you want, and whether the figure covers a single visit or a package.
| Comparison | Light peel | Medium peel | Deep peel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Healing | Roughly 1 to 7 days | 7 to 14 days | 14 to 21 days |
| Makeup | Allowed right away or the next day | Camouflaging makeup after 5 to 7 days | Only after at least 14 days |
| Where it is done | Not stated | Not stated | Under general anesthesia, in a surgical setting |
| Repeating | Often 3 to 5 peels, spaced 2 to 5 weeks apart | Can be repeated | Limited to one per person |
The American Academy of Dermatology is the source for every figure in this table (AAD).
Mechanism
What the acid does to the skin
A peel injures the skin to a planned depth, and the skin then repairs itself by building new layers. The strength of a peel depends on which acid is used, its concentration, the way it is applied and whether the skin was prepared beforehand. To end the treatment, glycolic acid and TCA are neutralized with an alkaline solution such as sodium bicarbonate. Salicylic acid stops by itself (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Depth
Superficial, medium and deep peels
Deep peels reach the mid-reticular dermis. Their main agent is the Baker-Gordon phenol formula, diluted to 50–55% phenol. The body absorbs phenol, and that can cause heart rhythm problems, which are reported in 34–50% of patients, along with liver and kidney toxicity. The review recommends cardiac monitoring and notes that lasers have largely replaced deep chemical peels (Soleymani et al. 2018). A 1979 study of 43 patients found frequent arrhythmias when phenol was applied to half or more of the face in under 30 minutes. None occurred when the same area took 60 minutes or more (Truppman & Ellenby 1979). According to the AAD, a deep peel needs general anesthesia in a surgical setting, treats one small section of skin at a time, and can be done only once in a person’s life (AAD).
Medium-depth peels reach the papillary dermis. Typical agents are 35% TCA or 50–70% glycolic acid, frequently applied after a first coat of Jessner’s solution, which combines salicylic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid (Soleymani et al. 2018). The AAD puts healing at 7 to 14 days (AAD).
Superficial peels stay within the epidermis. Typical choices include 30–50% glycolic acid, 10–30% lactic acid, 40% mandelic acid and 30% salicylic acid (Soleymani et al. 2018). The AAD says light peels may take 3 to 5 sessions, each 2 to 5 weeks after the last (AAD).
Indications
Skin concerns peels are used for
- Deep peels: moderate to severe photoaging with deep wrinkles and marked hyperpigmentation.
- Medium-depth peels: melasma, superficial acne scars, actinic keratoses, sun-damaged skin and fine lines.
- Superficial peels: fine lines, mild to moderate photoaging, superficial hyperpigmentation and sun spots (solar lentigines). For mild to moderate inflammatory acne, a 30% salicylic acid peel is used.
Chemical peels are unlikely to help with deep wrinkles, sagging jowls or drooping skin (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Skin Safety
Peels and darker skin tones
Boston University researchers looked back over five years of care at one center. The records covered 473 superficial peels given to people with Fitzpatrick skin types III to VI, and 18 of those treatments (3.8%) led to complications. Crusting (2.3%), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (1.9%) and redness (1.9%) were the most common. Every problem resolved within 8 months, though skin type VI carried higher odds of side effects (odds ratio 5.14) (Vemula et al., JAAD 2018).
A separate review covered peels for melasma in dark-skinned patients. It named glycolic acid peels the best option for safety and effectiveness and urged caution with TCA. It also said deep peels cannot be used in dark skin and medium-depth peels call for extreme caution (Sarkar et al., J Cutan Aesthet Surg 2012). The AAD’s advice for people with skin of color is to pick a dermatologist who has experience with darker skin, since permanent pigment problems can develop otherwise (AAD).
Preparing the skin first. An Indian expert consensus review on melasma recommends 2–4% hydroquinone for at least 4 weeks before the peel. It also recommends tretinoin, started 2 to 4 weeks ahead and stopped the day before (Sarkar et al., Indian J Dermatol 2017). Your provider can tell you whether a preparation plan suits your skin.
Branded Peels
The VI Peel and other branded peels
The VI Peel is a branded product available only through authorized clinicians. Its maker says a provider picks from six formulas (VI Derm). These include formulas for pigment and melasma, acne, early aging and mature skin, plus a body peel for areas below the collarbone (VI Derm, Our Peel Formulas). The maker describes flaking by day 2, peeling on days 3 to 5, and most patients done peeling by day 7 (VI Derm). The consumer pages do not give the ingredients or strength of each formula. Ask which formula the provider plans to use and how deep it reaches, because depth decides who may perform it in Texas.
What to Expect
Before, during and after a peel
Recovery follows peel depth. Unless a source is named, the figures below come from the American Academy of Dermatology.
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Ahead of the peel
Some patients follow a skin care plan for 2 to 4 weeks beforehand. If you have had oral herpes, antiviral medicine begins 1 to 2 days before the peel (Soleymani et al. 2018).
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Light peel
Expect redness, followed by scaling for 3 to 7 days. The skin heals in about 1 to 7 days. You can usually wear makeup right away or the next day.
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Medium peel
Swelling is worst around 48 hours, and blisters may form. Care includes daily soaks and ointment, 10 to 14 days of antiviral medicine, and no sun at all until the skin has healed. Healing takes 7 to 14 days, with camouflaging makeup allowed after 5 to 7 days. A follow-up visit is required.
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Deep peel
The treated area is bandaged. The dermatologist checks on you the next day and sees you several more times in the first week. Antiviral medicine continues for 10 to 14 days. Healing takes 14 to 21 days, and 2 to 3 weeks of that is spent recovering at home. Makeup waits until at least 14 days. Avoid the sun completely for 3 to 6 months.
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Once healed
Wear sunscreen daily, skip tanning beds and leave peeling skin alone. After a medium or deep peel, redness can last for months, and the skin may turn temporarily lighter or darker. Skin keeps aging, so results do not last forever.
Sun Protection
Sun protection after a peel
Sun care is part of aftercare for every depth. That means daily sunscreen after any peel, no sun at all until healed after a medium peel, and none for 3 to 6 months after a deep peel (AAD). Winter brought fewer side effects in the Boston study of superficial peels in skin types III to VI (Vemula et al., JAAD 2018). If an outdoor event is on your calendar, schedule the peel so that you can stay out of the sun while you heal.
Pricing
Cost
Prices vary with the kind and strength of the peel, and this site publishes no Austin price range. Request a quote for your exact peel, and find out if it covers one session or several.
Combinations
Peels alongside other treatments
We could find no professional guideline that gives a standard wait between a chemical peel and microneedling, Botox or dermal fillers. The maker of the VI Peel promotes adding it to a neurotoxin appointment (VI Derm), and to a microneedling treatment series. The wait depends on peel depth, the other treatment and how your skin heals. Before booking more than one treatment, have your provider plan the order and timing.
Peels and laser treatments: a 2018 review states that lasers have largely replaced deep chemical peels (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Isotretinoin: a 2017 expert consensus review did not find enough evidence to support putting off superficial chemical peels for people on isotretinoin or who recently finished it (Spring et al., JAMA Dermatol 2017). The summary says nothing about medium or deep peels. Let your provider know if you have taken isotretinoin.
Texas Law
Choosing a provider in Austin
Which peels an esthetician may do. Under the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation, estheticians may do light or superficial peels, meaning peels that clear dead cells from the epidermis and stop short of the dermis. Medium and deep peels enter the dermis, so they count as medical procedures overseen by the Texas Medical Board (TDLR).
| Peel depth | Esthetician (TDLR license) | Medical procedure under Texas Medical Board rules |
|---|---|---|
| Deep | No | Yes |
| Medium | No | Yes |
| Superficial | Yes | Not listed |
Texas Medical Board rules for delegated procedures. Subchapter E of 22 TAC Chapter 169 took effect January 9, 2025 (Texas Medical Board). It requires the following:
- A physician, or a PA or APRN working under the physician’s delegation, must first establish a practitioner-patient relationship with you (22 TAC §169.26).
- Delegation needs a written order (22 TAC §169.27). Whoever performs the procedure must sign and date a written protocol as well (22 TAC §169.26).
- The delegating physician’s name and Texas license number must be posted in every public area and treatment room (22 TAC §169.28).
Questions to ask before a medium or deep peel:
- Who will do the peel, and what license do they have?
- Who is the delegating physician? The Texas Medical Board’s Look Up a License page lets you check a physician’s license.
- How far down will this peel go, and what happens if there is a complication?
- If your skin is darker, how many peels has the provider done on darker skin tones?
Treatment Areas